| achilles tendinitis | Inflammation of the large tendon that connects your calf muscle to your heel. This can be caused by:
Running, especially on hard surfaces like concrete.
Tightness and lack of flexibility in your calf muscles.
Shoes with inadequate stability or shock absorption.
Sudden inward or outward turning of your heel when hitting the ground.
MedLine Plus Medical Encylopedia |
| albert | Man's slipper style with a tongue like extension of the upper over the instep.
Marc Carlson |
| american size system | The first shoe sizing system with detailed proportional measurements for lasts and shoes came from North America. The instigator, Edwin B Simpson of New York, prepared the first chart of standardised last measurements in 1880. This included shoe widths but it was another seven years before the Retail Boot and Shoe Dealer's National Association adopted the system. Much of the impetus to introduce a size system had arisen during the American Civil War (1861-65) where mass produced shoes were made in left and rights for the first time. As the main shoe manufacturers were in the North then orders for soldiers required a size system. To make it easier for the Army to order shoes for their servicemen, each soldier was allocated a shoe size as well as a nametag. Despite the availability of inflare footwear, these were not comfortable and many complained. The Confederacy fought barefoot. Right and left shoes were not commercially available for another half century. Although North America legalised the use of the metric system the industry did not adopt it as the only means. Regular reviews of regulation have meet similar non-compliance. Consequently there remains little standardisation of shoe sizes within the US. Ironically the industry continues to use Imperial measurements and each manufacturer determines how large a certain size will be. The only standardisation is each full size is 1/3 of an inch longer than the previous size. Women's shoes are marked 1 1/2 sizes different than men's (a size 9 women's shoe is equal in length to a size 7 1/2 men's shoe). In the American (or Standard) System the first number in the code represents the width (1 = A, 2 = B) The second number followed by a zero denotes the whole size: when the second number is followed by a 5 it indicates a half size.
Cameron Kippen, The History of Shoes: Shoe Making |
| anatomy of the shoe | According to McPhoil (1988) the anatomy of a shoe can be divided in an upper and lower (or bottom part). Sections of the upper include vamp, quarter, toebox, throat, insole board, and topline. The sections of the lower shoe consist of an outsole, shank and heel.
Cameron kippen, Curtin University of Technology, Perth WA |
| anthropometry | Studies show over 90% of people have different sized feet. Despite feet being the same length other dimensions vary with the individual foot. Activity of the foot will also change the shape of identical feet in accordance with the structure and function of the appendage. The idea of a perfect fit is not a reality. Because distribution or proportions of foot mass differ with individuals, which mean linear measurement such as length and breadth of the foot alone, are inadequate. It is important shoemakers consider mass and volume of feet if an exact fit is to be afforded. To ensure a best fit, measurements are taken at strategic locations and the shoemaker uses both linear as well volume measurement to construct a shoe. The modern last is made in three dimensions although it is not a direct replica of the foot. Instead it is made with production requirements, in mind. The lastmaker may take up to 35 measurements before the model last can be made. A shoe fitter may concentrate on length, ball width, heel, topline, arch and instep. The shoe is expected to wear well, feel well, keep its shape with wear, retain its style character, tread properly, allow for reasonable foot freedom, maintain both foot and shoe balance, remain structurally intact. These features are not always dependent on the quality of materials or components, or the manufacturing process. The design and multiple dimensions of the last provide the basis for the above.
Cameron Kippen, The History of Shoes: Shoe Making |
| ars sutoria | The ARS SUTORIA Institute is world-wide renowned as the most prestigious school for footwear model designing. It is located in Milan - Italy, the capital of apparel and leather fashion.
THREE MONTHS COURSE FOOTWEAR MODELIST-DESIGNER
The course teaches in a complete, theoretic and stylistic way, the making of all kinds of footwear;
arsarpel@arsarpel.it |
| balmoral shoe | American term for English oxford: blucher ) Method of lacing either boot or shoe. In a balmoral the two pieces of leather which are fastened by the laces form a 'V', and as they near the toe of the shoe, they disappear under the toecap. A bal style shoe is considered more formal and dressy.
On a blucher, the two flaps of leather run parallel to each other, and they are sewn to the outside of the shoe. the two pieces of leathe rhile a blucher is often a more comfortable style, and easier to fit, it is generally not thought to be as dressy as a balmoral
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| blucher | American term for the English Derby (pronounced darby) Method of lacing either boot or shoe.
A blucher is distinguished from a bal [oxford] by looking at the two pieces of leather which are fastened by the laces. On a blucher, the two flaps of leather run parallel to each other, and they are sewn to the outside of the shoe. On a bal, the two pieces of leather form a 'V', and as they near the toe of the shoe, they disappear under the front of the shoe. A bal style shoe is considered more formal and dressy, while a blucher is often a more comfortable style, and easier to fit.
Source here |
| boot | Any footwear extending above the ankle. There are numerous designs and types for a variety of uses and made from a number of materials.
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| bridal party | The union of lovers in Anglo-Saxon times meant abducting the bride from her family. To do this the groom needed the help of his friends, which were called bridesknights or bridesmen. They made sure the bride got to the ceremony and the groom's house afterwards. The bride also had women to help her called brideswomen or bridesmaids. The ceremony in Greenland was marriage by capture and after The parents gave consent, the bride was taken from her home by a group of women. She pretended to resist until she was left at the house of her intended. In Roman weddings the bride was escorted by several friends and three boys to her groom's house. The procession was led by one of the boys carrying a torch of pinewood. The door of the groom's house was decorated with garlands of flowers and on arrival the bride was bodily lifted across the threshold the men. These men had to be married, otherwise bad luck might result. The origins of carrying across the threshold are lost in antiquity but may have arisen as a result of one of the following: as a relic of capture or marriage enforcement; the bride had lost her virginity unwillingly; or to prevent the new bride from striking her foot against the threshold and thereby cause an evil omen. In Poland the bride was required to walk round a fire three times before washing her feet. Blindfolded with her mouth full of honey and her face veiled, she was led over the threshold then required to kick each door with her right foot for luck. Wheat, rye, oats, barleycorn and beans were all thrown at the doors and later the water she had bathed her feet with was sprinkled over the couple's bed and furniture. An old Algerian custom was for the groom to walk backwards across the threshold of the house. In doing so he held a knife in front of him meanwhile his new bride places her fingers on the blade and follows him through to her new home. It is the custom at Hindu weddings for the bride's father to wash the bridegroom's feet. Once submerged the father of the bride is required to relinquish responsibility for his daughter and pass it onto his new son in law. A Tali or jewel consisting of the golden head of an idol is given and the groom ties this around the bride's neck. The knot symbolised possession. Washing of feet is a respectful act and thought of as a great honour and is found in many cutures.
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Cameron Kippen, Curtin University of Technology, Perth WA |
| brogue (brogan, rullian) | A low, sturdy shoe for country wear, of Scottish/Irish extraction. Originally a hobnailed "Carbatine".
Marc Carlson |
| budapest | A well-known full-brogue Derby style of shoe with a high toe cap. [Vass]
Marc Carlson |
| bunion | A localized painful swelling at the base of the big toe. It is frequently associated with inflammation. It can be related to inflammation of the nearby bursa (a small membranous sac (one of the bursae muscosae)) causing bursitis or degenerative joint disease (osteoarthritis).
Webnox Corp. hyperdictionary |
| bursitis | Inflammation of the back of the heel. Can be caused by landing hard or awkwardly on the heel, or by pressure from shoes.
MedLine Plus Medical Encylopedia |
| buttons and brides | Buttons represent visual symbols of age-old amulets to ward off the evil eye or bad spirits. However in marriage gowns, they are considered a taboo and were thought to bring bad luck. Hence buttons do not usually appear on the bride's attire. Over a century and a half years ago, Queen Victoria married in white and started the fashion for white bridal gowns all over again. Before this, it was common to find brides dressed in black. During the 17th and 18th centuries prior to the invention of laced shoes, it was the norm to wear roses, buckles or bows on footwear. Surprisingly this was a style preferred by males. Fashion determined men showed their legs whilst women covered them up.
`Cameron Kippen, Curtin University of Technology, Perth WA |
| ceremony of shoes | Ceremony of Shoes
The idea of luck is the principal thought associated with shoes during marriage custom. Sharper Knowlson (1998) considered shoe customs were in existence from the time of the Egyptians but not confined to any one race. The privalence of new shoes in wedding folk lore would also suggest a passage rite.For most the connection between footwear, luck and marriage still continues. An old custom was to throw a shoe at weddings for luck and this continues today, in several forms.
Many wedding cakes are decorated with miniature charms, including silver shoes. These may relate to Biblical times, when removing the shoe denoted the confirmation of a contract for redemption or change of ownership. An example of this is given in the laws and ordinances within the book of Deuteronomy. A common practice was for a widow to marry her husband's surviving brother. In the event of him refusing to do so, she was directed to "come unto him in the presence of the elders, and loose his shoe from off his foot." This action was accepted as the widow's assertion of independence as well as declaring her brother-in law's failure to comply with the law. In a similar manner the Middle Ages custom found throughout Europe was for the bride's father to give an old boot or shoe from his daughter's left foot to the bridegroom on their marriage. This was thought to indicate the passing of responsibility for her well being. In Medieval France the groom would sit with his shoe over his brides foot alternatively other custom variation was for the groom to tap the bride on the head with her shoe to show, he was master. Another custom found across the world relates to removing shoes or giving shoes during the ceremony. The ancient Inca Indians of Peru had a custom where the couple were only considered officially wed, when they took off their sandals and handed them to each other. The significance of taking your shoes off may relate to submission to another's will. When the Emperor Vladimir proposed marriage to the daughter of Reginald, she refused him with the words" "I will not take off my shoe to the son of a slave. Removing the shoe may refer in this context to sexual intercourse. In Finland, traditionally the whole family accompanied the married couple to the bridal suite. The mother would not let the groom go to his bride until he had given her a pair of shoes. In some countries the wedding shoe was placed at the head of the bed on the husbands side to symbolise his sexual possession and to encourage fertility. Another variant came from Wales where the bride and groom were presented with a pair of shoes joined together by a chain all cut from a single block of wood. Originally one little cavity contained a lump of sugar and the other coal to ensure the couple might never lack sustenance and warmth.
Even today boot shaped confetti is ceremoniously thrown over the happy couple. In ancient times sandals were often ornamented with horns, crescents and other representations of the moon. The casting of shoes at marriage ceremonies may have had something to do with this. The throwing of flowers and various grains are thought to be associated with fertility and it maybe shoes have a similar function. Throwing shoes at someone going on a journey was also thought to bring good luck. Confetti thrown at weddings is thought to be a remnant of this custom. In more recent times the tying of old shoes to the wedding car may relate to the Middle Ages custom of throwing shoes to fend off evil spirits. It was commonly thought the devil was offended by the smell of humans and perhaps the basis for the practice was the presence of stench from sweaty feet. The origin of throwing shoes after the bridal pair remains obscure but could relate to the time when the bride was carried off by force. The throwing of shoes may symbolically demonstrate the clash of the relatives as the groom abducted the valued family member away. But this is unlikely since other customs would associate throwing shoes with, a good luck gesture.
Hurl after me a shoe.
I'll be merry whatever I do
Ben Johnson
"And home again hitherward quick as a bee
Now for good luck, cast an old shoe for me."
Old Heywood
"For this thou shalt from all things seek.
Marroe of mirth and laughter
And wheresoe'er thou move thou luck.
Shall throw her old shoe after."
Alfred Lord Tennyson
In the nineteenth century it was commonly believed that a husband could not be held liable for his wife's debts if she was married barefoot and clad only in a shift or smock.
Cameron Kippen, Curtin University of Technology, Perth WA |
| charles 1st boots | . (1600-1649). Charles suffered from osteomalacia (rickets) as a child and was feared would never walk without the aid of calipers. The Royal shoemaker designed boots which has concealed brass supports in the heel and ankle. Once an adult he was able to walk without the aid of his supports but continued to wear boot for preference.
Cameron Kippen, The History of Shoes: Shoe Making |
| clog | A thick soled wooden shoe sometimes with leather upper.
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| continental size system (paris point metric) | The Europeans used a metric system and hence each full size (or two thirds of a centimetre) is less than a full size but more than the half size. North America is one of the few countries, which is still using imperial measurement whereas most other countries have adopted a metric system. Gabriel Mouton, a French vicar, first introduced the metric system in 1670. In 1801 after several modifications the French officially adopted the measurement system. The French system does not support half sizes. Infant sizes start at size 15 (equivalent to 0) and each size then progresses by two thirds of a centimetre. By 1875 several nations had got together to discuss adoption of the Paris Point System and whilst countries like North America legalised the use of the metric system, the industry refused to adopt it as the only means.
Cameron Kippen, The History of Shoes: Shoe Making |
| cordovan | the term cordouan, or cordovan leather, has been applied to several varieties of leather. Today cordovan leather is a "vegetable tanned" horse "shell," and like the Medieval cordwain is used only for the highest quality shoes.
The Honorable Cordwainer\'s Company |
| corduroy | A cut-filling pile-fabric made of cotton which has hard wearing qualties.The fabric is woven in about the same manner as velvet except that the pile-filling picks are bound by the warp yarns. Fiber: Cotton, rayon, and other textile fibers. Weave: Filling Pile with both plain and twill back.
© Buch + Medien Verlag Buurman KG |
| cordwainer | A bespoke shoe maker makerCordoba was the centre for leather craft in Europe and the term cordwainer refers to a man who has derived his craft from the Spanish city of Cordoba. Craftsmen were sent to Cordoba to learn the secrets of the leather trade and bring them back to France. Cordoban boots were soft and worn crumpled or with a kink. A large piece of leather shapped like a butterfly was stitched across the instep to hold the golden or silver rowel spurs. A soulette was a strap fastened under the foot, which also held the spur in position.
Cameron Kippen, The History of Shoes: Shoe Making |
| cordwainers college | Cordwainers is a training and education college offering courses in all leather related disciplines including saddlery, shoe production, accessories, Information technology, Art and Design etc.
enquiries@cordwainers.ac.uk |
| court shoes | Heeled dress shoes with low cut fronts and usually no fastening. (Pumps, American)
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| courtship | In courtship, as in marriage, the desire for good luck and posterity was always linked. Superstition and shoes were interlinked and in Norfolk (UK), when a women went out to look for a husband they would wear clover leafs in her shoes. This meant she was bound to marry the first single man she met. Another common belief was when a lady's shoe was undone, then her lover was thinking about her. Young people on hearing the first cuckoo of the summer would remove their left shoe and there they found a hair, the colour of the person destined to become their spose. When a young wench wanted to know her future true love, she required putting her shoes, one across the other in the form of a "t" before going to bed. If she receited,
" I hope tonight my true love to see -
So I put my shoes in the form of a 'T'"
Then a vision of her true love would appear to her.
Alternatively if there was a pear tree close by, she could walk backwards towards the tree then circle it, nine times. This would have the same effect. 19th century girls in Buckinghamshire had the custom of pinning their stockings to the wall and reciting the following.
"I hang my stockings on the wall
Hoping my true love for to call
May he neither rest, sleep, nor happy be
Until he comes and speaks to me."
Another custom was to to take a sprig of rosemary and another of thyme and sprinkle them with water, three times, on St Agnes Day (21st January). In the evening if the girl put one in each shoe and placed the shoes on either side of her bed, all that was then required was for her to recite the following to make her future husband appear.
"St Agnes, that's to lovers kind,
Come wase the trouble of my mind."
Throwing left shoes in the air on New Year's Day was thought to devine her chances of marriage. Should the shoe fall to floor, right side an engagement during the year was promised. Should it fall and the toe point towards the thrower, then a marriage was likely to take place. Should it point towards the door then a longer wait was indicated.
Cameron Kippen, Curtin University of Technology, Perth WA |
| dorsum | The upper, outer surface of an organ, appendage, or part: the dorsum of the foot.
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| etruscan boots | The Etruscans were skillful tanners and made boots from animal skins and hides. A charateristic of their high and low boots was the curved up toe. Historians believe his may have been caused by the way the boots were laced pulling the excess upper towards the ankle. The body of the study boot covered the foot and the lower leg. The section that covered the foot and the back of the leg was laced together with thongs (Bigelow, 1970 p46). Boots have been traced back to 650 BC in ancient specimens of Etruscan footwear and were worn by priests whose duty it was to interpret supernatural signs. Warriors went barefoot but had leather or metal greaves to protect their legs, or wore fur lined rawhide boots with slashed foreparts; some were coloured and had embroidered cuffs. Leg bandings, in bound puttee fashion, rose above the ankles.
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Cameron Kippen, The History of Shoes: Shoe Making |
| flare | This describes the curve or contour of the last. The swing is determined by the position of the forepart when the last is bisected longitudinally forwards from the centre of the heel arc. With In inflare lasts there is an inward medial swing to the forepart and most modern shoes are made on an inflare last (banana last) because it is thought shoes are more comfortable. An outflare last describes the opposite with the swing lying to the lateral side of the forepart. Sometimes used in bespoke footwear for infants with diagnosed foot development problems. Straights last describe neither an inflare or outflare preference. The long axis of the last when drawn through the bisection of the heel curve describes two equal longitudinal halves. The normal foot has a straight axis and hence straight lasted shoes can be worn on either foot. Prior to the introduction of machinery to make heeled shoes it was common to have shoe made with a straight flare until the turn of the twentieth century.
Cameron Kippen, The History of Shoes: Shoe Making |
| flinging the stocking | Flinging the stocking was a variation on garter throwing and took place after their guests escorted the wedding couple to the wedding chamber. This custom was called as bedding and was known in ancient Greece and Norse societies. In Greece the bride ceremonially washed her feet with water brought by a boy related to one of the families. In Russia, part of the formality of going to bed for the first time was both husband and wife would remove each other's stockings. This was considered to represent their sexual commitment to each other. In the 17th and 18th centuries shoes and stockings became symbols of good fortune. Similarly stockings were also tossed at the happy couple. This was described by Henri Mission (1698) and had been known since, 1604.
"The bridegroom who by the help of his friends is undressed in some other Room, come in his Night-Gown as soon as possible to his Spouse who is surrounded by Mother, Aunt, Sister and Friends, and without further ceremony gets into bed. The Brides men take the Bride's stockings and the bride's maids the Bridegrooms. Both sit down at the bed's feet (backs to the bed) and fling the stockings over their heads, endeavouring to direct them so they may fall upon the married couple. If the man's stocking thrown by the maid fall upon the bridegroom's head, it is a sign she will quickly be married herself; the same prognostic holds good for women's stockings thrown by the man."
The custom was still alive in Scotland in the nineteenth century. Preference was always given to the left stocking. By 1850 the custom was for the bride to throw her stocking. The bridesmaids needed to leave the bride's stockings in a cross on her bed on the wedding night in order for the bride to fall pregnant.
Flinging the stocking would take place after the bedding. the bridemen took the bride's stockings and the bridesmaid took the bridegrooms. Both sat at the end of the bed and flung the stockings over their heads and in the direction of the married couple. If the man's stocking thrown by the bridesmaids landed on the groom's head, it was a sign the bridesmaid would be married soon. A similar fate would befall the bridesmen if the stocking landed on the bride's head. Both Pyps and Sir Walter Scott make reference to this practice.
"The bride was now laid ina bed,
Her left leg lo was hing;
And Gregory Gib was fidgen glad,
Because he hit Jean Gun."
Alan Ramsay (1685-1758)
Another rhythme appeared in the famous Gentleman's Magazine.
"Bid the lasses and lads to merry brown bowl,
While rashers of bacon shall smoke on the coal;
The Roger and Bridget, and Robin and Nan,
Hit 'em each on the nose with the hose , if you can."
Cameron Kippen, Curtin University of Technology, Perth WA |
| flipper (shoe) | A type of large flat rubber shoe, used for swimming, especially under water.
|
| goodyear welt | Method of attaching soles to uppers, principally men’s dress and work shoes or boots. The welt, insole and uppers are stitched together first and then cemented and or stitched to the sole
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| gout | This results from a build-up of uric acid which forms sodium urate crystals that deposit in joints and cause inflammation.
Gout commonly affects the first metatarsophalangeal joint of the foot. It usually affects men over age 40. Women with gout usually develop it after menopause.
APMA |
| hallux rigidus | Tere is little or no movement of the great toe at the metarso-phalangeal joint. In advanced cases the toe is flexed down permanently. This is usually caused by continual stubbing on the end of short footwear. To allow more normal gait shoes may have a metatarsal bar fitted beneath the metatarsal heads underthe sole.
Manual of Shoemaking by C. & J. Clark Ltd |
| hallux valgus | The great toe is forced over to the other toes at the metatarso-phalangeal joint. A bunion mayform on the outside of the displaced metatarsal head. The short flexor muscle may shorten pulling the toe further round.
Manual of Shoemaking by C. & J. Clark Ltd |
| hammer toe | The first Phalanx is extended and the second flexed down. A corn often forms on the first inter-phalangeal joint.
Manual of Shoemaking by C. & J. Clark Ltd |
| heel | The heel is the raised component under the rear of the shoe. Heels consist of a variety of shapes, heights, and materials and are made of a series of raised platforms or a hollowed section. The part of the heel next to sole is usually shaped to fit the heel, this is called the heel seat or heel base. The heel breast describes front face of the heel. The ground contact section is called the top piece. Heels raise the rear of the shoe above the ground. A shoe without a heel or midsole wedge may be completely flat. When the heel section sits lower than the forefoot the style is called a 'negative heel'.
Cameron Kippen, The History of Shoes: Shoe Making |
| heel pain | The most frequent causes of heel pain are not single injuries, such as a fall or twist, but repetitive or excessive heel pounding. Also see: plantar fasciitis, bursitis, achilles tendinitis.
MedLine Plus Medical Encylopedia |
| heel-to-ball | Positioning of the hinge of the forefoot (metatarsal phalangeal joints) and the widest part of the shoe (across the metatarsal heads).
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| hessian boots | George Beau Brummell (1790- 1840) epitomised the new age macho dresser and as a dandy was quite different to fops of the previous century. Brummell had certain ideocynrcacies and was reputed to have his boots polished with champagne. Not only that he insisted in having the soles of his boots polished at the same time as the uppers. The reason being he was concerned the edge of the boots were not perfectly shined. Brummell sported the two most popular styles of the time. These were the English, John Bull (or tall boot) and the Austrian, Hess boot. Hess boots took their name from the German state of Hesse, where they were made. The hesse boot was knee high and cut on a V at the front. Often the boot had a decorative tassle. In time the Wellington boot superceded the popularity of the HESSIAN BOOT (also called Souvaroffs).
Source here |
| instep | The arched middle portion of the human foot next in front of the ankle joint.
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| john bull or tall boot | George Beau Brummell (1790- 1840) epitomised the new age macho dresser and as a dandy was quite different to fops of the previous century. Brummell had certain ideocynrcacies and was reputed to have his boots polished with champagne. Not only that he insisted in having the soles of his boots polished at the same time as the uppers. The reason being he was concerned the edge of the boots were not perfectly shined. Brummell sported the two most popular styles of the time. These were the English, JOHN BULL (or tall boot) and the Austrian, Hess boot. Hess boots took their name from the German state of Hesse, where they were made. The hesse boot was knee high and cut on a V at the front. Often the boot had a decorative tassle. In time the Wellington boot superceded the popularity of the hessian boot (also called Souvaroffs).
Cameron Kippen, The History of Shoes: Shoe Making |
| journey to the church | At first the ceremony of marriage took place at the home of the bride. In Roman weddings the bride was escorted by several friends and three boys, one of who carried a torch of pinewood to her husband's house. The door of the house was decorated with garlands of flowers. By the higher Middle Ages wedding ceremonies moved to the church. The nuptial proceedings began with a procession to the church from the bride's house. Wedding parties generally made their way to the church on foot. This often meant a hike of two to three miles with interested children as an escort and local women calling good wishes from their doors. Many superstitions concerned the route and events that might take place on the way to the church. In the past setting out on important journeys were fraught with dangers and medieval people were fearful of evil doers. Meeting certain animals, or people afflicted with the evil eye would spell disaster for the married couple and hence much store was placed on lucky customs. An old greeting to the bride and groom was "a happy foot" and when the bridal party were travelling to the wedding it was customary for the bride to kiss fellow travellers. The custom for travellers to join the wedding party was also commonplace, for to continue on their journey, opposite to the wedding party, would bring bad luck on the couple. This is consistent with the "first foot" custom found in all Celtic cultures. Group disguises helped outwit evil wishers and bride's maids and brides men of the wedding party dressed to resemble the couple. In ancient Chinese culture, the bride was taken to the ceremony in a sedan chair. The reason was to prevent her feet from touching the ground. Floors were covered with red carpeting for the occassion. Shoe stealing is another unexplained wedding sport. Pakistani wedding guests remove their shoes before the ceremony. The bridegroom remains reluctant because the traditon is his shoes are taken and only return on payment of a forfeit.
Cameron Kippen, Curtin University of Technology, Perth WA |
| kid leather | Historically, the best material for womens` shoes, kid leather is the skin of young goats, which offers fine grain and suppleness.
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| kissing the foot | In 16th century France a newly married couple were obliged to stand naked outdoors while the groom kissed the bride's left foot and big toe. Each partner gave the other the sign of the cross with their heels, then with their hands. A variation was for the bride to kiss the groom's foot.
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Cameron Kippen, Curtin University of Technology, Perth WA |
| lace-up | Any low cut shoe fastened by lacings, such as an Oxford or Blucher.
Cameron Kippen, The History of Shoes: Shoe Making |
| last | Traditionally before mass production, the original shoemaker started the process by taking a footprint outline of the sole. He whittled or chiselled a wooden last from the print. A last ( 'laest', Old English meaning footprint) was traditionally made from wood but are now available now in metal or plastic. They are complex structures made from many measurements (statistically determined). Lasts are not the same size and dimensions of the anatomical foot but instead an abstract form with specific functions. It is usually deeper in the midfoot region, has a sharp 'feather edge' where the upper surface meets the sole, is clipped in along the topline (around the ankle) and is flaired over and extended in the toe region. This provides shape, which applies appropriate tension when the shoe distorts to contain the loaded foot. Lasts provides a working surface on which flat leather components can be given plastic form. The physical dimensions accommodate the foot during activity and the last contains contemporary fashion and styles such as toe shape. To allow the last to be removed from the shoe they are often hinged around the instep. Shoe lasts are not made to resemble feet but instead to suit the shoe manufacture. Modern lasts are totally unlike the foot with the sole of the last, flat in order to assist in manufacture. Shoe making was classified under three headings: turned shoes, welted shoes and through-seam shoes.
Cameron Kippen, The History of Shoes: Shoe Making |
| latchet | A leather thong or strap used to fasten a shoe or sandal on the foot.
Inside Yahoo! Education |
| leptodactylous | Having slender toes.
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| linings | In quality shoes the quarters and vamps are lined to enhance comfort and durability. Linings may consist of various materials i.e. leathers, fabrics, and man-made synthetics. The lining on the insole segment is called 'the sock' and may be full-length, three-quarter or just the heel section. Many linings are made of synthetic material and are usually confined to the quarters and the insock.
Cameron Kippen, The History of Shoes: Shoe Making |
| loafer | A type of low-heeled casual shoe similar to a moccasin. They originated in Norway and were introduced to the USA in the 1940s.
Probert Encyclopaedia: Costume |
| louis heel | The term Louis heel was first applied during the reign of Louis XIV to a type of sole and heel made in one section. During the 19th century the term was applied to a thick, often covered heel, which is tapered at the mid- section before flattening outward, this type of heel first being worn during the reign of Louis XV in the 18th century.
Probert Encyclopaedia: Costume |
| luck | Luck and the lack of it, refers to possibilities outside of the self. Belief in the operation of chance deals with Nature and the forces behind it. We remain very superstitious and our mental processes appear not to have altered greatly, despite the enormous increase in factual knowledge. The idea of luck, and a belief in it, accounts for the accountable and explains the unexplainable. To the believer everything depends on luck. To the bride and groom we would wish them nothing but, good luck. Hence the continuation of quaint and sometimes obscure custom which when explained have often quite logical origins, yet who among us, would ever dare tempt ill fate, by ignoring them.
`Cameron Kippen, Curtin University of Technology, Perth WA |
| mallet toe | Only the second joint is affected and the Distal Phalanx flexed.
Manual of Shoemaking by C. & J. Clark Ltd |
| marriage ceremony | The Marriage Ceremony
From the earliest of times most ordinary people were not married in the legal sense, but became joined and co-habited after performing a process known as handfasting. The union lasted a year and a day and couples could renew their vows by going throw another handfasting ceremony. In Roman law there were two types of legal marriage, the oldest form was called manu (under the hand) and was the formal transfer of the father's patria potestas (power of life and death over her) into the hands of the husband. In free marriages, the bride remained under the technical authority of her father even after she was married to her husband. The daughter was able to seek formal emancipation with the death of her father leaving her free to conduct her own affairs, unabated by her husband. The free marriage gained greatest popularity at the end of the republic. By the time legal marriages were established, for much of Western history, they came to represent a legal exchange of property, money (Dowry) and lineage. This was the true focus of celebration. The church sanction of the union of two lovers was secondary and many arranged marriages took place between complete strangers. It was important the ceremony was witnessed by as many influential people, as possible, thus ensuring the legitimacy of any children. In the absence of mass communication many important guests were invited as the linage and ownership of property needed to be known by the community. When father gave his daughter to her new husband this was a gesture of property exchange and represented the passing of responsibilities of the bride to the groom. In Anglo-Saxon marriages this was symbolically seen when the bride's father gave the bridegroom, the bride's shoe. The groom touched the bride's head with her shoe in token of his authority. In France, the groom would rest his foot on his bride's shoes throughout the wedding ceremony for the same reasons.
Cameron Kippen, Curtin University of Technology, Perth WA |
| mesopotanian boot | The earliest people to wear boots were the ancient Mesopotamians. They wore boots made from kid leather with laced closures. Between 3000-1400BC in Crete, both men and women wore calf high boots tied to their legs with thongs. The boot had a strip of leather against the anterior aspect of the leg and secured below the knee with a band of leather. The top of the foot was covered. (Bigelow, 1970 p37). People went barefoot in the house. Later the Cretans wore a puttee of leather. These were thick soled boots woven in red, white or yellow. Leggings were worn just below the knee and used when hunting. Women usually went barefoot but Amazon women wore boots very similar to those of men. In ancient Greece soldiers wore high boots. They were fitted to the leg and foot snugly and in some cases left the toes exposed. The boots were laced up the front of the leg ending at the top of the calf ended up at the top of the calf. Mycenean men wore decorated calf length boots of pliable leather. By 5 BC young Greek men wore white boots made of stretched material pulled up to the top of the calf and decorated with turned over tops in blue and green. The toe section was often highly decorated.
Source here |
| metatarsal | Any of the five long bones that make up the instep of the foot.
Webnox Corp hyperdictionary |
| metatarsalgia | Pain under the metatarsal heads may be caused by dropping of the heads of the central metatarsals. This is often caused by an overloading of the forepart, e.g. wearing higher heels than one is acccustomed to or wearing narrow shoes, cramping the metatarsal heads. A callous may form beneath the central metatarsal heads thus increasing the pressure.. Metatarsal pads can be fitted in the shoes, either to provide a cushion under the central metatarsal heads or on the shafts behind the central one.
Manual of Shoemaking by C. & J. Clark Ltd |
| metatarsalgia (metatarsal pain) | People suffering from metatarsalgia - which derives its name from the term "metatarsals," or long bones of the foot - suffer from intense ball-of-foot/ metatarsal pain.
The metatarsal bones equally share the weight of a person during walking and daily activities. When this delicate balance between bones is disrupted, the result can be mild to intense metatarsal pain. The term metatarsalgia refers to the number of problems people can experience in this area, including general ball-of-foot/ metatarsal pain.
What Causes Metatarsal Pain?
The causes of metatarsal pain can be attributed to a number of factors, from bone abnormalities to systemic conditions such as diabetes.
The most common cause of metatarsal pain is an imbalance in the long bones of the foot. These bones absorb the weight during walking, and if one of the bones is abnormally long or fractured from stress, it will create dysfunction among all bones, causing intense metatarsal pain.
Other factors that can contribute to metatarsal pain include the following:
An enlarged metatarsal head can lead to metatarsal pain.
Arthritis or any degenerative disease of the joints may contribute to metatarsal pain.
Systemic conditions such as diabetes, which can cause nerve-type pain in the foot, can cause metatarsal pain.
Calluses or skin lesions that cause the weight on the foot to be unevenly distributed can bring about metatarsal pain.
Aging, which tends to thin out or shift the fatty tissue of the foot pad, may produce metatarsal pain.
Sports that place tremendous pounding on the ball of the foot, like jogging, can lead to metatarsal pain.
Ill-fitting shoes that put pressure on the bones of the feet may contribute to metatarsal pain.
Shoes with small toe boxes that cramp your toes can lead to metatarsal pain.
You should discuss the information provided with a podiatrist, physician or other licensed healthcare professional.
FootSmart.com 1-800-870-7149 |
| mid-sole | Sole between insole and outer sole. Made of leather or composition to create the double soled boot or shoe.
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| mondo point | This was a proposed international shoe sizing system based on the metric system. The idea originated in Australia and was intended to replace English, French, Italian and other size systems. Mondo point provided a uniform system of shoe sizes among the nations of the world. The sizes were based on millimetres. Shoes were described as 255/98 or 255 millimetres long and 98 millimetres broad. Sizes progressed from the smallest to the largest, from children's through to adults without interruption. Foot size was determined with the person weight bearing.
Cameron Kippen, The History of Shoes: Shoe Making |
| monk | Similar to Derby Shoes but with a cross over section to fasten the quarters with a side buckle.
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| mule | A backless shoe or slipper with or without a heel.
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| nubuck | A grain leather that has been slightly brushed on the surface so that a very fine velvet-like appearance is created. The texture of Nubuck is finer than suede because the natural grain pattern is left intact through the use of drastically improved brushing techniques.
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| old wive's tales | In Northern Italy, the old custom was to have everyone try on the brides shoe similar to that described in Cinderella. Should a young bride wish to wear the trousers in the family then an old English tradition was to take her husbands shoes off on the day of the wedding. In Persian marriages it was customary for the bride to remove her groom's stocking. In Germany many pregnant women wore their husband's shoes because the husband was stronger and the common belief was the wife would gain his strength by wearing them. It is bad luck for the bride to trip on their way to the altar. A bridesmaid who trips on her way to the altar will remain a spinster. It was also considered bad luck for a bride to step over the doorstep when entering her new home. Rather she should be carried over by her husband. The tradition of carrying the bride over the threshold dates from Roman times, when it was indicated that a bride sacrificed her virginity, this has came to represent in an unspecified way to protect the luck of the happy couple in their own home. Other reasons for carry the bride over the threshold include reference to stealing the bride and more likely to prevent her from touching the threshold of the house with her foot. In antiquity when a younger sister married before older female, siblings, the custom was for the unmarried older sisters to dance barefoot at the wedding. Otherwise they were destined to spinsterhood. In East Anglia, the custom was for the older sister to dance in a hog's trough and in the west of England, the girls danced in green stockings. Green here may have reference to spinsterhood and another reason why it should be a colour considered unlucky at weddings.
Cameron Kippen, Curtin University of Technology, Perth WA |
| oriental bridal shoes | In traditional Chinese weddings the bride and groom wore intricately ornamented wedding ensembles as well as special shoes. The bride's lotus shoes were often decorated with instructions on how to consummate the marriage.
Cameron Kippen, Curtin University of Technology, Perth WA |
| outsole (outer sole) | This is the outer most sole of the shoe, which is directly exposed to abrasion and wear. Traditionally made from a variety of materials, the outsole is constructed in different thickness and degrees of flexibility. Ideal soling materials must be waterproof, durable and possess a coefficient of friction high enough to prevent slipping. Leather has poor gripping capabilities and synthetic polymers are much preferred. There are also an infinite variety of surface designs. Extra grip properties can be incorporated in the form of a distinctive sole pattern with well-defined ridges. Alternatively they can be moulded with cavities to reduce the weight of the sole. These cavities need to be covered with a rigid insole or can be filled with light foam to produce a more flexible sole. In some cases two or more materials of different densities can be incorporated into the sole to give a hard wearing outer surface and a softer, more flexible midsole for greater comfort. Synthetic soling materials will off the physical property of dampening down impact levels (shock attenuation).
Cameron Kippen, The History of Shoes: Shoe Making |
| paisley | A swirled pattern characterized by a teardrop shape. Popularized in Paisley, Scotland, during the 1800s, this design was originally an adaptation of a spade pattern found on Indian shawls. Today, paisley decorates everything from sheetings to fine dresses and always makes a statement of rich elegance.
http://style.polo.com/glossary/ |
| panne velvet | A velvet fabric, usually made of silk and rayon, in which the pile has been pressed down in one direction, increasing its luster. Its fluid drape makes it an ideal fabric for women’s dresses and blouses.
/default.asp?letter=P |
| pants | Pant
A garment that closes at the waist and wraps loosely about each leg.
Named after the Italian comic character Pantalone, who sported a garment resembling our modern-day pant, the pant was worn by children and laborers well before the style began to dominate everyday dressing. The pant’s evolution in men's fashion began in the late 1700s with the sans-culottes, French revolutionaries who shunned the tight breeches and stockings worn by the ancien régime and opted for torn, often slovenly, baggy pants to symbolize their political struggle. French emperor Napoleon later adapted the look for his infantry. However, it was English dandy Beau Brummel who is often credited with introducing the pant to society, and in 1815 the Prince of Wales finally sanctioned it, allowing the garment to be worn in court. At this time, pants were typically considered what one wore in the evening, while trousers were worn during the day.
Suffragette Amelia Jenks Bloomer is often credited with introducing pants to women's fashion. She shocked Britons and Americans alike in the 1850s by wearing a Turkish dress and full pant to deliver her lectures. When bicycling became a craze in the 1890s, women began wearing the pants, which they called bloomers in honor of Amelia’s style. Women continued to move into the athletic sphere, and eventually the pant became a regular classic in their wardrobe, setting the stage for their use in everyday wear that began in the 1940s and continues today.
http://style.polo.com/glossary |
| parka | A winter jacket with a fur- or faux fur–lined hood. Originally worn by the Eskimos, this warm outerwear was adopted for utilitarian purposes before becoming a classic outerwear option for cold-weather protection.
Polo Ralph Lauren |
| pashmina |
A feather-light, extremely soft and warm fiber said to rival cashmere that is made out of wool combed from the undercoat of Himalayan mountain goats. From the Indian word for “cashmere,” pashmina has been a status symbol in the East for many centuries, and pashmina shawls and blankets were an essential component of a wealthy woman’s dowry. Recently, pashmina became popular in the United States, and the pashmina shawl became an essential item, despite its cost, in every woman’s wardrobe.
Polo Ralph Lauren http://style.polo.com/glossary |
| peau de soie | A soft, heavy fabric, often silk, with a fine diagonal rib. From the French for "skin of silk," peau de soie is used for evening wear, bridal wear and bridal shoes
Polo Ralph Lauren http://style.polo.com/glossary |
| percale | A plain-weave, lightweight fabric with a high yarn count that is most often used for sheets.
Polo Ralph Lauren http://style.polo.com/glossary |
| pes cavus (humped foot) | The longitudinal arches are high with the arch visible on the outside of the foot increasing the weight borne by the forepart.Shoes with a high waist, generous instep girth and cushioning under the arch are required.
Manual of Shoemaking by C. & J. Clark Ltd |
| pes planus (flat foot) | The inner longitudinal arch flattens as the oscalcis and astragalus tip forward and the forepart turns out due to the stretching of the ligaments and muscles, sometimes caused by the foot having to bear extra weight, e.g. after a long illness or during pregnancy, but usually this is congenital.
Manual of Shoemaking by C. & J. Clark Ltd |
| picot | The small decorative loops that form an edging on ribbon and lace
Polo Ralph Lauren http://style.polo.com/glossary |
| pile | A fabric construction in which loops are added to the base. These loops can remain intact, or their tops can be cut. Terry cloth is an example of a pile fabric in which the loops remain intact, and velvet and corduroy are examples of pile fabrics in which the loops are cut.
Polo Ralph Lauren http://style.polo.com/glossary |
| pill | A small tangle or ball of fiber that appears on a fabric surface as a result of rubbing or wear. The presence of pills on a garment is usually considered a flaw, although even naturally, shorter-length fibers such as cotton and cashmere have a tendency to pill. Department stores offer sweater razors designed to clean the pills off of fabrics, but they must be used carefully as they can sometimes pull or snag the weave, creating a hole.
Polo Ralph Lauren http://style.polo.com/glossary |
| pima cotton |
A high-quality, very strong, long-staple cotton typically used for fine shirtings.
Polo Ralph Lauren http://style.polo.com/glossary |
| pinstripe | Crisp, thin, usually gray or white, evenly spaced lines woven into wools that give suitings a classic office elegance. See also chalk stripe.
Polo Ralph Lauren http://style.polo.com/glossary |
| pintuck | A very narrow fabric fold stitched on the right side. Usually appearing in a series, this embellishing technique often decorates girls’ and women’s blouses and dresses and is a defining feature in the men’s guayabera shirt.
Polo Ralph Lauren http://style.polo.com/glossary |
| pinwale | See corduroy and wale.
Polo Ralph Lauren http://style.polo.com/glossary |
| piping | A narrow bias-cut fold of fabric stitched into a seam to provide decorative embellishment. See also cording.
Polo Ralph Lauren http://style.polo.com/glossary |
| pique | A durable woven or knit fabric that is characterized by an allover textured pattern, the most popular of which are the cord, diamond and honeycomb.
Polo Ralph Lauren http://style.polo.com/glossary |
| placket | A strip of fabric running along a closure, usually to facilitate the taking on and off of a garment or a loop at hte back of a gore or congress boot as an aid to putting on the boots
Polo Ralph Lauren http://style.polo.com/glossary |
| plaid | A fabric in which bands of color running horizontally and vertically intersect to form squares. Plaids date back to the 1500s and now come in many patterns from argyle and gingham to madras and windowpane, always evoking classic style.
Polo Ralph Lauren http://style.polo.com/glossary |
| plain seam | The simplest of seams, in which two edges of a fabric are sewn together on the wrong side and then pressed open. Plain seams should be used on fabrics that don’t have a tendency to unravel.
Polo Ralph Lauren http://style.polo.com/glossary |
| plain weave | The simplest of fabric weaves in which length and crosswise yarns interlace over and under, alternately.
Ralph Lauren http://style.polo.com/glossary |
| plantar fasciitis | Inflammation of the thick connective tissue on the sole of your foot that attaches to your heel. The pain is usually felt at the bottom of your heel and is often worse in the morning because of stiffness that occurs overnight. The following increase your risk of developing this painful problem:
Shoes with poor arch support or stiff soles.
Quick turns that put stress on your foot.
Tight calf muscles.
Repetitive pounding on your feet from long-distance running, especially running downhill or on uneven surfaces.
Pronation -- when you tend to land on the outside of your foot and roll inward when walking or running. To know if you pronate, check the soles of your shoes to see if they are worn along the outer edge.
MedLine Plus Medical Encylopedia |
| platform (shoe) | A shoe, boot, or sandal with thick soles, often made of cork, plastic, rubber, or wood (wooden-soled platform shoes are technically also clogs), generally worn strictly for fashion, and/or added height. They have been worn in various cultures since ancient times.
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| pleat | A fold of fabric made by doubling material over on itself. An ages-old tailoring technique, several types exist, most of which provide more volume to a garment for either decorative or utilitarian purposes.
Ralph Lauren http://style.polo.com/glossary |
| pleather | A fabric designed to mimic leather. With modern innovations in fabric technology, pleathers now offer tasteful alternatives to leather dressing and affordable and animal-friendly means of achieving the texture of expensive skins.
Ralph Lauren http://style.polo.com/glossary |
| plissé | A lightweight, plain-weave fabric, often silk or cotton, that has a characteristic puckered striped effect created through the application of chemicals. Its end uses include pajamas and childrenswear. See also seersucker.
Ralph Lauren http://style.polo.com/glossary |
| ply | A term used to refer to the number of fibers twisted together to form a yarn, the lowest ply thus being a two-ply yarn. Higher-ply yarn is often considered to be superior, as it is stronger, resulting in a stronger fabric and more durable garment.
Ralph Lauren http://style.polo.com/glossary |
| podiatry | Medical specialty practiced by a licensed Doctor of Podiatric Medicine (D.P.M.).
Podiatrists are devoted to the study and treatment of disorders of the foot and ankle. Education consists of a four-year program following college.
Podiatrists may independently diagnose, treat and prescribe medicine for disorders of the foot. They may perform surgical corrections of foot pathology and in some states perform complex ankle reconstruction.
For more information on podiatry go to American Podiatric Medical Association (APMA).
free definition |
| pointelle | A knit fabric with a subtle allover openwork, usually geometric, design. Typically translated in a lightweight cotton knit, pointelle offers delicate texture to T-shirts, pajamas and childrenswear.
Polo Ralph Lauren http://style.polo.com/glossary/ |
| polyester | A man-made fiber resistant to shrinkage, wrinkling and moths. Men’s suitmakers were among the first to exploit polyester’s qualities, blending the fiber with wool and cotton in an effort to provide their customers with low-maintenance dressing options.
Polo Ralph Lauren http://style.polo.com/glossary/ |
| poncho | A garment that is basically a square or rectangular blanket with a center hole for sliding over the head. From the Chilean word pontho, or “wool cloth,” ponchos have their origins in South America, where workers wear the brightly patterned covering in chilly mountainous regions. American youth adopted ponchos for an ethnic hippie look in the 1960s, and the style has maintained a certain popularity ever since.
Polo Ralph Lauren http://style.polo.com/glossary/ |
| pongee | A lightweight silk with a texture achieved from using wild threads that are slightly nubbed. From the Chinese word penchi, meaning “woven at home,” pongee was originally handwoven in China before it was mass-produced for ties and blouses.
Polo Ralph Lauren http://style.polo.com/glossary/ |
| poplin | A tightly woven, durable, plain-weave fabric with a slight ridge effect. Widely used in sportswear, poplin has become a staple fabric in the everyday wardrobe.
Polo Ralph Lauren http://style.polo.com/glossary/ |
| pouch pocket | A large pocket placed at the center-front of a garment over the stomach area. So called because it mimics the pouch in which kangaroos carry their newborns, pouch pockets represent the ultimate in utilitarian style. Also called a kangaroo pocket.
Polo Ralph Lauren http://style.polo.com/glossary/ |
| prairie skirt | A skirt that is flared at the waistline and has one or two rows of ruffles at the hem. Originally worn by American women settlers traveling west, the style has been adapted for modern use to reflect country appeal.
Polo Ralph Lauren http://style.polo.com/glossary/ |
| preppy | In fashion, a term used to describe clothing and accessories inspired by private-school style.
Preppy’s origins can be found in the 1890s when private academies, also referred to as preparatory schools, began to appear in greater numbers than ever before, creating competition among them to attract the most prestigious students to ensure their reputations as exclusive educational domains. Part of this perpetuation of status involved aspirational dressing, which incorporated regal elements such as emblems, colored ribbon belts and ties and monograms into school uniforms. This stately look took a turn in the 1920s, however, when students returning from the war began wearing their khaki-colored chino uniforms to school, establishing the groundwork for a casual mix that would forever give prep its own twist. Prep evolved over the decades, reaching its highest popularity in the 1980s when mass culture adopted the classic elements for everyday dressing, often adding bright colors to the mix. Prep has recently experienced yet another revival, this time showing the same basics in slimmer cuts and newer colors. Its enduring popularity over the decades ensures that preppy looks will continue to evolve, forever populating our wardrobes with Ivy League style.
by Ralph Lauren
Polo Ralph Lauren http://style.polo.com/glossary/ |
| princess seam | Seams used in a girls’ or women’s blouse or dress that follow the line from the mid-shoulder, through the apex of the breast, to either side of the belly button to provide a silhouette that follows the female form.
Polo Ralph Lauren http://style.polo.com/glossary/ |
| print | A fabric with a design applied to it. Prints date back thousands of years, and most countries have prints that are native to their land. Although many prints—such as batik—are most beautiful when done by hand, technology has enabled the development of new printed effects, ensuring that prints will continue to evolve for years to come.
Polo Ralph Lauren http://style.polo.com/glossary/ |
| pronation | The foot absorbs the shock of each step by flexing and rolling - pronation. The foot rolls a bit inward with each step, and with the correct gait should begin to roll outward with the toe-off. But for some people the ankle rolls too far downward and inward with each step. This can lead to injury but can be corrected with the right shoes, insoles, or orthotics.
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| pull-on boots | Boots that hae no fastening. Sometimes made of stretchy leather or vynil but most often with one or two elastic gores
Polo Ralph Lauren http://style.polo.com/glossary/ |
| pumps | Heeled dress shoes with low cut fronts and usually no fastening. (Court shoes British)
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| quarter | The complete upper part of the shoe behind the vamp line covering the sides and backpart. The top edge of the sides and back of the quarter describes the topline of the shoe. In athletic shoes the topline is often padded and referred to as a collar. The medial and lateral sections join in a seam at the posterior end of the shoe. In Oxford style lacing shoes, the eyelet section is formed by the superior part of the quarter (while the underlying tongue is part of the vamp). In the Gibson style the lacing segment forms part of the vamp. The heel section of the quarter is frequently reinforced with a stiffener. This helps support the rearfoot. In boots the quarter is often referred to as 'top'. In the Bal method, the front edges of both quarters are stitched together and covered with the back edge of the vamp. In the Blucher method the quarter panels are placed on top of the vamp, and the front edges are not sewn together. In comparison with the Bal method, the Blucher method permits the fitting of a larger foot girth by broadening the throat of the shoe. A convalescent shoe (open to toe) is a variation on the Blucher method in which the lacing extends to the front edge of the vamp. In athletic shoes the vamp and quarter panels are often one continuous piece of nylon or leather with additional leather pieces added to reinforce critical areas of the shoe. Reinforcement added to the region of the medial longitudinal arch are termed the saddle if it is added to the outside of the shoe or the arch bandage if it is added to the inside of the shoe.
The counter is a component of the quarter that stabilises the hindfoot in the shoe and retains the shape of the posterior portion of the shoe. Counters are usually made from fibreboard or heat moulded plastic. Foxing is an additional piece of leather that covers the counter externally. Sometimes a counter will extend medially to support the heel and prevent prolonged pronation. In some children's shoes and athletic footwear the stiffener is extended on the medial of the arch to provide an anti-pronatory wedge.
Cameron Kippen, The History of Shoes: Shoe Making |
| recede toe | This is the part of the last, which projects beyond the tip of the toes forming the rounded contour of the front of the shoe. A tapering recede such as in todays sharp shoes increases the overall length of the shoe. In a poorly designed last the recede may encroach on the toes increasing tension on the ends of the toes. This may be referred to as tight lasting.
Cameron Kippen, The History of Shoes: Shoe Making |
| roman boots | According to Pattison and Cawthorne (1997) Romans wore boots to keep their feet warm whilst living in colder climates. The military boots were hobnailed and depending on rank determined how far up the leg the boot could go. Victorious soldiers when they returned to Rome would have their copper hobnails removed and replaced with gold and silver ones. Julius Caesar was reputed to have worn a pair of boots made from gold. Eventually boots were worn by citizens. At first patricians wore muleas, which were red or violet coloured boots These were served however for those patricians who had served as magistrates. Some authors believe the muleas has been confused with calceus patricius, a style of shoe worn by Roman senators. Citizens of Romans wore a boot made from hairy undressed hide similar to those worn by agricultural workers. The calceus was a boot developed at the end of the Roman period. It was high boot laced on the inside of the leg and fitted with a tongue. Many boot forms arose from the calceus. The muleus was similar to calceus, but laced with red coloured thongs and only worn by emperors. The gallicae was a knee high closed boot, the espadrilles was a boot with straps laced through eyelets, or sophisticated version of the Greek crepida. The calceus senatorum was a calf length boot won by members of the senate The boot was slit on the inside and fitted with a tongue. Generally black until the late empire when they were white with complex lacing. (Anderson Black J Garland M 1975, p29). The boot genrally had gold or silver crescents at the front. The letter "C" was embossed and referred to the first 100 patricians or nobles established by right of birth or priviliage. These boots or bushkins extended to the knee and were fastended with four tags or knots. Plebians and vulgar people could wear boots too but they were restricted to the use of one or two knots.
Cameron Kippen, The History of Shoes: Shoe Making |
| sandal | Originally a slab of leather sole attached to the foot by thongs. Today any open
shoe whose upper consists of any decorative or functional arrangement of straps. A sandal can be foot low to knee high, or with any heel height, designed for simple utility or casual wear or as a fashion shoe.
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| satin | Originated in China (Zaytoun, China - now Canton - a port from which satins were exported during the Middle Ages). Became known in Europe during the 12th-13th centuries in Italy. Became known in England by the 15th century. It became a favourite of all court life because of its exquisite qualities and feel. Usually has a lustrous surface and a dull back. The lustre is produced by running it between hot cylinders. Made in many colours, weights, varieties, qualities, and degrees of stiffness. A low grade silk or a cotton filling is often used in cheaper cloths.
BharatTextile.Com |
| shank | The shank bridges between the heel breast and the ball tred. The shankpiece or shank spring can be made from wood, metal, fibreglass or plastic and consists of a piece approximately 10cm long and 1.5 cm wide. The shank spring lies within the bridge or waist of the shoe, i.e. between heel and ball corresponding to the medial and lateral arches. The shankpiece reinforces the waist of the shoe and prevents it from collapsing or distorting in wear. The contour of the shank is determined by heel height. Shoes with low heels or wedged soles do not require a shank because the torque between the rear and forefoot does not distort the shoe.
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| shantung | It is a raw silk made from Tussah silk or silk waste, depending on the quality. It is quite similar to pongee, but has a more irregular surface, heavier and rougher - it was originally produced from wild silk in Shantung province (now known as Shandong) in northeast China. Most of the slubs are in the filling direction. Wrinkles quite a bit. Underlining helps to prevent the wrinkling as well as slipping at the seams. Do not fit too tightly, if long wear is expected. Shantung comes in various weights, colours and also printed.
BharatTextile.Com |
| shoe size system | A continual frustration to many who care for the foot weary is the absence of a standard shoe size system. Although metrology and reliable measurements have been in existence for approximately two hundred years, the concept of a shoe sizing system is relatively recent. Shoe sizing systems based on standard metrological measurements have been in existence for just over 100 years but shoes made in half sizes have only been available half that time. As part of the protection many craftsmen operated in early times, shoes were individually coded. Like a painter signing the canvas, shoemakers marked the inside of the shoe with their persona codes. This deliberately kept the size a secret from the customer and virtually ensured their return for new shoes. This is still in evidence today and many manufacturers maintain individual size systems in order to promote customer loyalty. The first US record of shoes marked with sizes dates back to between 1860 and 1870. The procedure soon followed in England. It was only full sizes recorded (half sizes did not appear until the late 1880s). In 1886 the Hanan Shoe Co. were the first manufacturer to stamp their name on their shoes. In 1888 the first fitting stool was introduced to the trade by Sollers Shoe Manufacturing Co., Philadephia.
Cameron Kippen, The History of Shoes: Shoe Making |
| shoe stick | The origin of shoe sticks date back to antiquity. They were described in Ancient Egypt, Rome and Greece and used by shoe and sandal makers. For centuries there was no shoe size standards or systems and each craftsman was free to use his own method. It was common to use their own bodies particularly their hands as gauges. An English yard for example was the length of the arm i.e. shoulder to fingertips or sometimes nose to fingertips. The problem was not everyone was the same size and when a human foot was used to measure footage of land, much depended on the size of the individual as to how much the purchaser bought and the seller sold. In Rome, the inch (which was one twelfth of a foot) measured the width across the interphalangeal joint of the thumb. By the 7th century in England, the barleycorn became a standard measurement with three ears of corn, laid end to end, equalling one inch. It took until the thirteenth century before the inch was officially sanctioned. Under pressure, Edward II (r. 1307-27) eventually succumbed to appeals from scholars and tradesmen to issue a decree to standardise measurement (Ledger, 1985). Henceforth an English inch was the distance measured across three barleycorns taken from the centre of the ear and placed end to end equalled an inch. Thirty nine (39) barleycorns laid end to end became a foot and 117 laid end to end became a yard. Whilst the barleycorn decree of Edward II had nothing to do with shoe sizes per se many shoemakers began to use shoe sticks. Tradesmen had traditionally used the handspan method of measurement, which preferred the quarter of an inch unit, but after the introduction of the barleycorn measure, many began to adopt the third of an inch unit. With 39 barley corns approximating the length of a normal foot, this was graded size 13 and became the largest shoe size. Other sizes were graded down by 1/3 rd of an inch or one barleycorn. It took until 1850 before the first uniform shoe stick using the English size system appeared. Ironically this took place in France and shoe sticks were not accepted in North America, until after 1900.
Cameron Kippen, The History of Shoes: Shoe Making |
| shoemaker's tools | Although the shoemaker in old tales is pictured as being a solitary worker, after the early 1700s shoemakers began to join together in individual shops. Each of the members would specialize in a particular procedure in the process of shoemaking.
Some of the members would do several of the tasks; for instance, the clicker, whose job was to cut the leather for the uppers, was often the maker, who measured the customer's feet and who made the final assembly of the shoes. Other members of the shop would include the patternmaker, who made the patterns from which the leather was cut; the closer, who prepared and sewed the leather uppers together; the finisher, who lined, dyed, and waxed the shoes after the maker had fastened the soles to the uppers.
Another procedure in the early shops, which later became a trade in itself, was making the lasts. The lasts are carved from wood, and they serve as models of the feel that the shoes will fit and as working molds over which to make the shoes. The clicker uses a number of different knives to cut the leather for the uppers.
One of the more unusual looking tools is the large round or half-moon knife, with some of the earliest known examples dating back to about 1500 B.C. The closer takes the leather from the clicker, trims it, and sews the pieces together into the upper portion of the shoes. The maker then uses the lasting pincers to stretch the uppers onto the last, where it is tacked prior to sewing the insole. The temporary tacks are removed, and the sole is sewn, pegged, or nailed to the insole and the uppers. The sole was sewn to the uppers by first making a hole with a curved awl. Through this, the waxed thread was quickly inserted, using a flexible hog bristle as a needle.
The variety of tool styles and sizes used by shoemakers is quite large; one 19th century tool catalog offered the shoemaker 17 different styles of shoe hammers and 140 different styles of sewing awls. Edge irons were available in some 20 profiles, with 7 or more sizes each. They were used to finish the edges of the sole after it was fastened to the uppers. The similar glazing irons, the two-handed glazer, and the long stick are used to burnish the leather. The colted long stick has a stone on one side that was used to abrade the protruding pegs on the sole before burnishing. Inside the boot, the other ends of the pegs were removed and smoothed with the bladed peg cutter and the toothed peg breakers. If the soles were nailed, the metal cobbler's foot was used inside the shoe to clinch the nail-points.
© Copyright 1999. Southern Polytechnic State University. All rights reserved.
Southern PolytechnicState University Virtual Tools Museum |
| shoemaking | .
Shoemaking is a traditional career/craft, mostly superseded by industrial manufacture of footwear.
Footwear created by individual craftsmen have included boots, sandals, clogs, moccasins, and shoes.
Typically they are made of leather, wood or other plant material, and often consist of multiple parts for better durability of the sole, stitched to a leather upper.
Typically a shoemaker uses a last to form the shoe on. Traditionally it has been made of either iron or wood. Some lasts are straight. Curved lasts come in pairs, one for left shoes, the other for right shoes.
The profession of shoemaking has had its own stories (Shoemaker's elves), patron saint (Saint Crispin), and proverbs ("The shoemaker's children are often shoeless").
Some types of ancient and traditionally-made shoes:
* Romans fighting in northern Europe: furs wrapped around feet, and sandals wrapped over them
* Clogs: wooden shoes, often filled with straw to warm the feet
* Mocassins: simple shoes, often without the durability of joined shoes (although different types of leather have different wear characteristics)
The SCA offers some advice about making period shoes.
Current crafters often use used car tire tread as a cheap alternative to creating soles.
[edit]
Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia |
| shoemaking tools: bull-dog pincers | These pincers can be used for las=ting in the waist or shank of the upper, enabling the laster to overcome the difficulties of a tight upper at that point. It is a dangerpous tool to use unless care is taken not to use it transversely across the waist
Boots and Shoes Their Making Manufacture and Selling by W Wardley |
| shoemaking tools: cutting nippers | For cutting off brads, nails or rivets
Boots and Shoes Their Making Manufacture and Selling by W Wardley |
| shoemaking tools: double faced hammer | This type of hammer is most useful where hammering is required as in bottoming and channel-laying.
Boots and Shoes Their Making Manufacture and Selling by W Wardley |
| shoemaking tools: driver | Used for driving brads sprigs etc
Boots and Shoes Their Making Manufacture and Selling by W Wardley |
| shoemaking tools: hammers, | In selecting a hammer chose one with a face not too convex and NOT flat. The reason for this is to prevent marking or indentations on the material/ A flat-faced hammer will always produce circular or semi-cicular indentations in the sole.
Boots and Shoes Their Making Manufacture and Selling by W Wardley |
| shoemaking tools: single faced hammer | Also Known as the London Pattern Hammer is intended for tapping up, levelling the lasting allowance of the upper material and defining the feather line of the shoe.
Boots and Shoes Their Making Manufacture and Selling by W Wardley |
| shoemaking tools: swedish pattern pincers | This is a tool with which to apply strain to the upper to pull the upper into position on and over the last.
Boots and Shoes Their Making Manufacture and Selling by W Wardley |
| shoemaking tools: the shoe lift | This is used for easing the shoe back on to the last sfter sewing
Boots and Shoes Their Making Manufacture and Selling by W Wardley |
| shoemaking tools: the sleek stick | This tool is used in the chanel laying process after the shoe is sewn.
Boots and Shoes Their Making Manufacture and Selling by W Wardley |
| shoemaking tools: the tack knife. | This is a small tool used for the removal of superfluous or unwanted tacks.
Boots and Shoes Their Making Manufacture and Selling by W Wardley |
| shoemaking tools: the toe beater | This is a curved shaped tool used for levelling and defining the feather line of the shoe around the forepart and seat.
Boots and Shoes Their Making Manufacture and Selling by W Wardley |
| silk | The elastic, hygroscopic protein fiber produced by the larvae of many species of moth of the natural order Lepidoptera the most important of these being the Bombyx moths, and especially Bombyx mori (the silkworm or mulberry worm). Raw silk threads consist principally of sericin and fibroin, which are proteins containing carbon, nitrogen, hydrogen, and oxygen but not sulfur. Silk is widely used in spinning thread and weaving fabrics, and is used in bookbinding for sewing, for doublures, for covering books (generally embroidered bindings), and in the repair of torn leaves, etc. Silk as a covering material is somewhat extravagant, particularly since books covered with it usually must have boxes to protect them, as it does not wear well and is particularly susceptible to deterioration in natural light. Silk used for doublures, however, is protected from the deteriorative effects of light and air and often out-lasts the covers.
Etherington & Roberts. Dictionary |
| sole (inner sole) | A layer of material shaped to the bottom of the last and sandwiched between the outsole (or midsole) and the sole of the foot inside the shoe. The insole covers the join between the upper and the sole in most methods of construction and provides attachment for the upper, toe box linings and welting. This provides a platform upon which the foot can operate and separates the upper from the lower. The insole board is necessary in shoes that are constructed using cemented or Goodyear welt techniques because it is the attachment for upper and lower components. The majority of insole boards are made of cellulose and are treated with additives to inhibit bacterial growth. Athletic shoewear will often have a sockliner, a piece of material placed over the top of the insole board (glued in position or removable.
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| something old, something new... | "Something old, something new,
Something borrowed something blue.
And a lucky sixpence for your shoe."
Unknown (19th century)
The rhyme "Something old, something new, something borrowed, something blue." is often slavishly followed but few people know the true origins. The first reference to the rhyme appeared in a newspaper in 1888 and was ascribed to "some Lancashire friends". From the seventeenth century "something old" was thought to protect a baby. The something old could be the bride's garter, her slippers or a handkerchief. There appear no previous citations for "something new" albeit brides would normally wear their best dress to the ceremony. From early Saxon days through to the 18th century the poor bride came to the wedding dressed in a plain white robe. The significance of which had little to do with virginity but instead was a public declaration that she brought nothing with her to the marriage and had no debt for her new husband to honour. It was widely accounted wearing something burrowed was lucky. This was especially true if a happy bride had previously worn the item. Throughout the Middle Ages footwear was very expensive and it was common to bequeath footwear to loved ones. The phrase "Following in your father's footsteps" relates this custom. Also a common belief was wearing the shoes of other people gave those who wore them, the attributes of the previous owner. Wearing something blue was an expression of faithfulness and was cited in Chaucer's' Squire's Tale (1390). The something borrowed was sometimes varied to something golden or something stolen. A long standing bridal superstition says that no harm can befall a bride wearing blue, so very often a bride selects either a blue garter or one coordinated with her bridal colours. The blue, which is the only colour a bride can wear besides white must of course be, heaven's blue. In Scotland the bridegroom was accustomed to seek protection by standing with the lachet of his shoe loose and a silver coin under his foot. The lucky silver sixpence appeared in 1774 when there was a record of a Scottish groom using a sixpence in his shoe to ward off evil from his revival. Later in 1814 the same was done, this time worn by the bride as talisman to ward off evil doings from disappointed suitors. Another potential source of this custom relates the ancient law of "Jus Prima Noctis". This was where the king, or lord, or priest could clain access to the bride on her first night of marriage. The custom was found in many cultures including the Scots. In the reign of Malcolm III , his wife St Margaret demanded and secured the abolition of the law. Instead a mark of silver was given as a price of redemption of the girl's chastity. This is thought to be the purpose of the sixpence under her shoe. Carrying a coin at the wedding would symbolically come to represent future wealth for the bride. In Canada, brides wore a shin plaster which was a 25 cent bill in their shoes. US brides from North Carolina carried a dollar bill in their shoes and in Sweden. the father of he bride placed a silver coin in the left shoe of the bride and the mother put a gold coin in the right shoe. This again meant the bride would never lack luxuries.
Carrying a coin at the wedding secures future wealth. In Canada a shin plaster describes a 25 cent bill in their shoes. North carolina brides carry a dollar bill and in Sweden the father puts a silver coin in the left shoe and mother puts a gold coin in the right shoe. This means the bride will never lack luxuries.
Cameron Kippen, Curtin University of Technology, Perth WA |
| souvaroff boot | The hussar, or Souvaroff boot, named after the Russian marshal Alexander Suvorov, appeared around 1800. It was cut lower in back than in front, the front often ornamented with a swinging tassel. It varied in height and was known in England as the Hessian boot. Another type of military boot was popular, high over the knee in front and cut out below the knee in back. Though known as the Wellington boot, it is seen worn by Napoleon in many of his portraits.
R. Turner Wilcox, The Mode in Costume |
| spurring | The tradition of calling the banns or marriage contract terms, as a preliminary to marriage, is an ancient one. After the marriage was arranged a wedding notice was posted on the doors of the church. The notice was put up to ensure that there were no grounds for prohibiting the marriage. The notice stated who was to be married, and if anyone knew any reason the two could not marry they were to come forwards with the reason. If the reasons were valid the wedding would be prohibited. In Lincolnshire (UK), calling the banns was known as 'spurring', and when the banns were read out, the locals would say "Why thoos gotten one's spur on thee!"
Cameron Kippen, Curtin University of Technology, Perth WA |
| straight tip | American term for english straight cap
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| the ceremony | At first vows were exchanged outside, in front of the Church's doors, before the congregation moved into the church for the nuptial mass. After the mass, the procession went back to the bride's house for a feast with musicians accompanying the procession. The origin of the man standing on the right side and the woman on the left, whilst facing the door of the church is unknown. One reason often cited however was according to the Scriptures, Eve was formed out of a rib of the left side of Adam. Another reason may relate to the time when men wore swords, most wore them on their left side and hence needed their right hand free to draw the sword to defend their bride. At times the groom may have had to abducted his bride from her family and the treat of ensuing violence may have necessitated the need to carry his sword, even to the altar. It was also customary in some parts of Europe, for the bride to have a ceremonial sword, as part of her nuptial wear. In an attempt to thwart the power of witchcraft in Avoch, Scotland, the 19th century fishermen would expect the best man to untie the groom's left shoelaces on reaching the church. They then formed a cross with a nail or knife upon the right hand side of the church door. In Scotland the young lads of the village or town would congregate at the church door and prevent the bridal party members from entering the church. The bridegroom had to pay a forfeit or accept the challenge to kick the lad's ball over the kirk. Should the groom refuse either labour, the boys stole the bride's shoe. Only then could the party proceed to the alter. Modified paractices were recorded in England and Wales. This may be the origins of the wedding "scramble" i.e. a demand for payment or toll, as a condition of release. This may relate to the time when brides were forcibly taken into wedlock. There were even superstitions about leaving the church. For the bride to leave the church, left foot first, meant to many, she would be under her husband's thumb.
Cameron Kippen, Curtin University of Technology, Perth WA |
| throat | The central part of the vamp just proximal to the toe box. The throat is formed by the seam joining the vamp to the quarter i.e. throatline. The position of the throat line depends on the construction of the shoe, for example a shorter vamp and longer quarters define a lower throat line. This gives a wider lower opening for the foot to enter the shoe. The throat is defined by the connection of the rear edge of the vamp and the front part of the quarter. The location of the throat will vary with the design of the shoe. Because the vamp and quarter panels are often one piece in the athletic shoe, the throat is at the eyestay. This refers to the point where the lacing is attached to the vamp. The throat of the shoe dictates the maximum girth permitted by the shoe.
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| throat opening | The distance from the vamp point to the back seam tuck.
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| throwing garters | Throwing garters is considered to be the oldest surviving wedding tradition. Back in Dark Ages it was customary for friends, relatives and guests to accompany the bridal couple to the marriage bed. At first this was to safely see the married couple ensconced in their wedding bed and once established the crowd respectfully left the newly weds to their own company. The custom became rowdier and bawdier until the guests were eager to help the bride out of her wedding clothes. The wedding guests would try to grab the bride's garter for good luck. It is thought to forestall such impropriety, the bride's garter was given to the mob as a distraction. Soon this became an established custom. Throwing the garter to the groom's men is what remains of the custom. In Northern England the old
custom was for male guests to rush the bride at the altar when the ceremony was finished and remove her garter from her leg. In the panic this usually meant the bride was knocked over and trampled on. Gradually brides made garters easier to detach and finally to avoid threat of injury they tossed their garters away at the end of the ceremony. Garters were imbued with fertility and the bride's garter signified consummation, fulfilment, and progeny and was always fiercely sought after. Untying the bride's garter had a deeply symbolic act. In the past the lucky guest to receive the bride's garter would wear it proudly on his hat, before giving it to the girl of his choice for luck. Another variation on this custom in the 19th century was for the local youths to race from the church to the bride's house. The first was given the honour of removing the bride's left garter. He would then tie this around his own true love's knee as a guard against unfaithfulness. In the North of England , the custom was for the man to wear the bride's garter in his hat.
"Quickly, quickly then prepare,
And let the young men and bridesmaid share
Your garters; and their joynts
Encircle with the bridegroom's points."
Another verse, to indicate the popularity of the custom:
"Which all the saints , and some since martyrs,
Wore in their hats like wedding garters."
Even Samuel Pepys noted the quaint custom in his seventeenth century diary.
"there was pulling off Mrs Bride's and Mr Bridegroom's ribbons."
The origins of favours (small coloured ribbons) was also thought to come from the bride's garter. Guests were given the bride's favours to avoid being turned upside down by men eager for the luck of her garter. By 1648, garters were passed onto the best man and bridesmaids. Blue garters were very popular and represented faithfulness or devotion. Blue was also symbolic of purity and innocence. Red and white garters were also common but green garters were considered unlucky. Green was an indicator of youth and although girls would marry as early as twelve years of age during the Middle Ages, premature marriages carried with them the menace of early death. This may account for the bad luck associated with green at weddings. Three colours not used in medieval weddings were yellow, gold or purple. The former was associated with jealousy and used in parts of Europe as a sumptuary mark of sex workers; gold was thought to symbolise avarice; and only royalty wore purple. An old German custom was one of the male guests would slip under the table and remove the ladies yellow garters. Once collected the ribbons were cut into piecess and the men wore them in thie button holes. As society changed it became inappropriate to throw part of the bride's underwear and so her bouquet was substituted. Throwing the garter was reintroduced in the early part of the twentieth century and may be associated with the introduction of photography. Wedding photographers expect the bride to pose with her garter in sight and some bride's still through their garter into the crowd.
Cameron Kippen, Curtin University of Technology, Perth WA |
| throwing the garter | Throwing garters is considered to be the oldest surviving wedding tradition. Back in Dark Ages it was customary for friends, relatives and guests to accompany the bridal couple to the marriage bed. At first this was to safely see the married couple ensconced in their wedding bed and once established the crowd respectfully left the newly weds to their own company. The custom became rowdier and bawdier until the guests were eager to help the bride out of her wedding clothes. The wedding guests would try to grab the bride's garter for good luck. It is thought to forestall such impropriety, the bride's garter was given to the mob as a distraction. Soon this became an established custom. Throwing the garter to the groom's men is what remains of the custom. In Northern England the old
custom was for male guests to rush the bride at the altar when the ceremony was finished and remove her garter from her leg. In the panic this usually meant the bride was knocked over and trampled on. Gradually brides made garters easier to detach and finally to avoid threat of injury they tossed their garters away at the end of the ceremony. Garters were imbued with fertility and the bride's garter signified consummation, fulfilment, and progeny and was always fiercely sought after. Untying the bride's garter had a deeply symbolic act. In the past the lucky guest to receive the bride's garter would wear it proudly on his hat, before giving it to the girl of his choice for luck. Another variation on this custom in the 19th century was for the local youths to race from the church to the bride's house. The first was given the honour of removing the bride's left garter. He would then tie this around his own true love's knee as a guard against unfaithfulness. In the North of England , the custom was for the man to wear the bride's garter in his hat.
"Quickly, quickly then prepare,
And let the young men and bridesmaid share
Your garters; and their joynts
Encircle with the bridegroom's points."
Another verse, to indicate the popularity of the custom:
Cameron Kippen, Curtin University of Technology, Perth WA |
| toe spring | This describes the elevation of the undersurface of the sole at the toe to give a slight rocker effect to the shoe. The amount of toe spring (built into the last) depends on the shoe style, sole thickness and heel height. This is built into the last design and compensates for the stiffness of the footwear and provided a stress free take off into propulsion. The more rigid the soling material the greater the toe spring. Many shoes will also display a slight heel spring.
Cameron Kippen, Curtin University of Technology, Perth WA |
| toecap | Many shoes incorporate a toecap into the upper of the shoe. Toecaps are either stitched over or completely replace the distal superior aspect of the vamp and can be made into a decorative features referred to as toe tips. The toe box refers to the roofed area over and around the part of the shoe that covers the toes. The function of the toe box is to retain the shape of the forefoot and allow room for the toes. The height and width of the toe box is dictated by shape of the last used to construct the shoe. Certain types of non-athletic and athletic footgear will offer extra depth in the toe box.
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| tread | This describes the width across the sole under the ball of the last and it should correspond to the dimension of the feet. The tread point on the last r |
